Surfing and the well rounded individual

Surfers in the mist It's a soft grey morning at Nahant, no wind. The early morning horizon is lined with mist. I've been surfing and now I'm laying on my board at the edge of the backwash, resting and catching my breath. I'm thinking how great surfing is. Before coming in I kept saying to myself, one more ride, for about 5 rides. See, I can enjoy something other than kitesurfing and windsurfing. I'm a well rounded individual. It's nice that I have time to lay here and rest. I close my eyes. It feels good to relax my tired arms, legs, and shoulders. I try to let go of my thoughts and focus on the beach sounds- waves, seagulls, gurgling water... Blowing sand? I turn my head and open 1 eye slightly to look at the flag over the bathroom. Nope, still no wind. Surfing is great. I go back out for 1 more ride. Nahant, Surfed, Acid94, others.